Ancient Ruins on Crete

Day 8 – Crete and the Palace of Knossos

Crete? You ask – well yes, it seems the weather gods were playing for keeps and high winds kept us from making port at Piraeus near Athens. Instead we carried on Eastward and made port at Heraklion (ear-ACK-lee-on) on the island of Crete. Crete is now a Greek island but is one of those little bits of the planet that nations fight over – it has been occupied by the Darians, the Romans, the Saracens, the Venetians, and the Turks. It obtained independence at the turn of the 20^th century and then joined with Greece in 1913. It was last occupied by the Germans in 1941-44. This pile of stone in the Mediterranean is so popular because it is located strategically at the intersection of three continents – Europe, Asia and Africa. It is amazing they have anything at all! Crete is also the heart of much of what is known of ancient Minoan civilizations. It is said to be the birthplace of Zeus and it is here that Theseus with Ariadne that the Minotaur was mythically slain and the people of Athens freed from sacrificing 14 of their children every year. The Minotaur was half bull, half man and ate Athenians (not sure why) and lived underground in a labyrinth.  (Hey – I don’t make this stuff up!). Ariadne gave Theseus a ball of thread so he could find his way back out of the Labyrinth. This is the reason embroiderers are so fond of her. Leave it to a woman and her thread to rescue everyone!

Palace of Knossos, Crete

reconstructed rooms, there are over 1000 rooms

Gryphon Fresco in the King's Throne room

The Queen's Bath Room

BIG pots...

looking up across the palace from the lowest level

So – we set foot on land – storied and ancient land. And went off in search of some ruins. We found some at the top of a mountain overlooking the city of Heraklion – the Palace of Knossos. The palace is a ruin from Minoan times (approx. 3000BC) and is the most complete building known from that period. It was discovered by several archeologists and then the land was purchased by a wealthy British archeologist by the name of Sir Arthur Evans.  He spent the next 30 some years of his life excavating and recreating portions of the palace. By the time he died he had unearthed the remains of more than 1000 rooms and much more remains hidden and is still being uncovered today. Sir Arthur took some liberties with reconstruction and with interpretation and they are still trying to sort fact from fiction nowadays. It is an amazing place and being here in January meant we were free from the crowds that swarm here in the summer.  There are some wonderful reconstructed bits and pieces including frescos that are in situ. The real things are in the National Archeological Museum in Heraklion. Amazing stuff for people who come from a place where there is little evidence of those who have gone before save for the odd teepee ring or arrowhead.

After exploring the many levels of the palace we headed back into Heraklion and did a little exploring on food. Many Greek Tavernas and the wonderful smell of charcoal grilled lamb everywhere! Also – a taxi drivers strike to protest the EU treatment of Greece (just to keep us in the 21^st century).  I managed to strike gold with a lovely hand embroidered tablecloth in original Cretan designs made right here, to add to my little collection of textiles from around the world.  The sun came out and it was nice though the wind which prevented us from seeing Athens has followed us and is now blowing briskly across the decks.



In the city of Heraklion - old meets new



We shall haul anchor shortly and set forth for Egypt and the Suez Canal. Till then – Adeeo from Crete.